Design duo Karen Erickson and Vicki Beamon did not hold back for this spring presentation! They had performance dancers choreographed by Stephen Petronio, live human swans bedecked in plums and 6″ paper eyelashes … But the piece de resistance were these ‘mannequins’ intricately composed of jewels, beads, bobbles and porcelain flowers! Works of art in themselves, surely giving Nick Cave some competition! (p.s. Cave’s newest Sound Suit installation can be seen currently at Mary Boone Gallery …)
Models lined up within a neon lined grid reminiscent of a chess board, albeit one occupied by brightly clothed pawns, queens and knights! Yigal Azrouel‘s ’80s inspired spring show brought only good memories of a decade that isn’t easy to reinterpret without falling to cliche … Wanna wear now: cornflower/celadon lightning bolt knit dress, star print washed silk jumpsuit and sc-fi visors! Styled by veteran Heidi Bivens to a “T” that included collaboration between Cut25 and Frye as well as great beaded collars custom made by Holst+Lee.
Sister Phoebe and Annette Stephens refined jewelry has been a cult favorite since it’s launch in 2009 and there’s no doubt as to why … these seeming simple sautered purses, collars and cuffs are so elegant yet bohemian; just the right amount of edge to lend each piece uniqueness. Truly collector’s items …
Expanding on the multi seamed, body con, multi-layered esthetic, Katie Gallagher‘s latest is the most versatile yet. Keeping it narrow color wise (black and red), Gallagher used texture and technique to keep each look fresh! Stiff tulle layers that could never be prim in her hands as well as leather and satin bits with uneven, pointed hems kept this collection neat and cool!
The Lake & Stars
Mayan Zilberman and Nikki Dekker of this lingerie label makes outerwear seem superfluous .… who wouldn’t rather be running around in one of their delicious teddies? Or bustier with matching briefs? Inspired by 1950’s Mexico, this season is on F-I-R-E, senoritas … Ole!
Leave it to Mr. Benz to side step the hoopla yet draw the uber crowd nonetheless … showing across the square at Avery Fischer this season was a clever move. The second floor faced west bathing the terrace and guests with sunshine and a view of the fountain below. The Benz gal is not shy, she knows her style and carries it well; how bout a swirl printed bralette or a seaweed green sequined blazer? He is the Mix Master for sure! Go ahead with a floral print jacket matched with optic wave patterned trousers; it looks fun, sophisticated and chic! Thanks for the smile Mr.Benz.
Whitney Pozgay knows how to round up a crowd … pretty ensembles, a terrace and more pretty ensembles …. Showing her third season at the Gramercy Park Hotel Terrace this group of separates of Mexicali inspired floaty striped frocks and tops hit the right note. Timeless in style were the easy knit tank dresses and the geometric print shorts with matching boat tops. All ready for that desert holiday indeed!
Across the park at one of the most beloved NYC venues, The National Arts Club, Sofia Sizzi had a runway show for her label Giulietta. Show notes described a heroine traveling through a remote Mediterranean village and one certainly got that impression from the beautifully crafted knee length knit dresses and easy scarf patterned wide legged silk pants. Sizzi will be swamped with attention next season so it was a pleasure to witness the birth of a label that will cross everyone’s lips soon.
Fotini introduced her eponymous evening group one floor below at the Penthouse of the Gramercy Park. Twelve models composed an austere portrait of diverse options for the red carpet: Grecian draped gown in muted greys, Chantilly lace corset dress or a floor length beaded and chiffon gown. Surely, we will be seeing more of this designer; stay tuned.
Gia Coppola‘s film debuted at the Mondrian’s Mister H. featuring Melissa Coker‘s Spring collection and Dana Lorenz of Fallon jewelry. The project was art directed by co-hostess and Lula editor Leith Clark. By far one of the coolest fashion events of the season for those in the know and have been in the loop …. fellow film makers Miranda July and aunt Sofia Coppola, fit for the NY marathon Carlos Quirarte, Teen Vogue’s Jane Keltner and Andrew Bevanand on the turn table the fabulous Tennessee Thomas.
Shortlisted for the newly established Dorchester Fashion Prize, Julian Louie presented his s/s collection at the Standard this week. Shifts and tops were color blocked not only in design but in texture as well by way of leather/silk/crepe de chine ; treating the garment in a typographical manner, not symmetrically. Blossom and grass prints provided a’ Nature’ contrast to the taffeta and hemp like tasser. Collaborating for the fourth time with Aldo, the towing printed wedges will blow out of the store once again; GUARANTEED … Congratulations on the nomination and on a wonderful season!
The gymnasium was hot and airless; but nobody notices once the procession of orb swathed models made their way through the room in a deliberate choreographed pattern, so indicative of the design collective 3AS4. Based on the traditional Arab scarf, jackets and floor length sculpted dressed echoed the keffiyeh pattern. Layered tunics over mesh leggings topped with seamed cocoon jackets floated by … followed by a tiled vest over a caftan. Echoes of tradition and future are themes that 3AS4 has always represented and this collection married both quite harmoniously as the show theme promised: INSHALLOM. Front row peeps: Yoko Ono with son Sean Lennon and fellow bandmate/girlfriend Charlotte Kemp Muhl, Sarah Sophie Flicker, Mark Borthwick and Kim Gordon.